Edible Museum
Edible Museum
Avatars of Ahmedabad
Mandalabad (Mandala-abad)

Mandalaabad, where the beautiful art form of Mandala comprising concentric circles and intricate patterns have been manifested into a city, is a work of art in itself that houses the accretion of urban fabric patterns of the city over a period of more than 10 centuries. At the nucleus of the city is the old kingdom’s fort. Twelve main roads emerge from the fort area that leads to the twelve gates serving as the grand entrances into the core city, further guarded by the river on one half and the fort wall around the other half. The divisions of the circle encompassing the fort into twelve parts are the puras, settlements of the communities that flourished under the reign of the emperor then. Each of these divisions consists of major roads converging into the main plaza, locally known as chowkdi, that further branches out into perplexing streets leading to community chowkdis and houses. As one walks through these areas they feel lost, both in terms of being unable to orient themselves as well as metaphorically getting lost in the new worlds that open up in front of them. One sees a spillover of private space-oriented activities into the public realm, individual houses lined transforming into a collective one and one starts getting a sense of the place. The patterns of the mandala can be seen carved into the brackets of the houses, the door frames, the windows and columns on the otla (raised platforms) and represent the magnificence of the city. To someone new to the city there exists a new world full of surprises and to someone accustomed to the city exists the world that they built themselves piece by piece.
Over time, the city expanded outside the limits of the fort wall, where one could reach to the other side of the city through the bridges over the river. The mosaic of the city changes, one finds it less mystifying as more order arises. However, the same yet different characteristic persists in these interfaces where the old city transcends into the so-called new city. Newer patterns and hierarchies emerge that seem more like a beautifully organized chaos, the part that people refer to as the modernist mandala. Built by the people of the city, philanthropists, artists and designers, the city houses whoever seeks a better chance at life. The hustle and bustle persist as people flock to and from work, vendors on the street and nukkads shouting the prices of their items, children playing, people talking and walking, all of this coming together out on the lines that mark the streets on the map of Mandalaabad. Further from this comes another edge of the city marked by a broad ring road. On crossing over the wide road beyond the interface lies the periphery of the city where the urban mountains instead of the traditional rocky mountains, that is, the mountainous buildings cohere the patterns of the city followed by the agricultural lands as the extensions of the city.
As one looks from above, the city seems conventionally like a Mandala, yet it is concomitantly unconventional. The concentric circles with ornated patterns of street networks in each of the segments have resembling labyrinthine paths but as one zooms into it, they realize that is seldom the case, as all of them uniquely prevail. One can question whether or not the characterization of the city as a mandala holds true when it doesn’t include a repetition of geometric patterns, which is true as it doesn’t categorize as the traditional mandala. Nevertheless, the city fabric falls into the broader understanding of it, one which represents the wholeness of life in the smaller world created within the world where the quintessence of the city lies in the street manifested as the embellishments of the mandala map that represent the organization structure of life, the life of Mandalaabadis.
Masters ni Pachedi
From Traditional to Modern Heritage of Ahmedabad: The City of Ahmedabad and the Two Masters: Louis Kahn and Le Corbusier

The old city of Ahmedabad was included as India’s first UN-recognized heritage city in 2017 which manifests the culturally diverse yet coherent part of the city. While the older part thrives, the city extended beyond its fort walls predominantly on the Western side of the Sabaramati river with the advent of industrialization in the early twentieth century. The Sabarmati River serves as the nucleus of the city and has created a binary of the Eastern part/old city and the Western part conversely as the new city. The distinction is prominent in the form of the two parts as well, the old city with its labyrinthine streets and traditional pol houses and the Western part with more ordered streets and use of typologies.
The city underwent major development facilitated by philanthropists and industrialists (like members of the Sarabhai family, Kasturbhai, Lalbhai to name a few) during that period and subsequently witnessed the foundation of the modernist architectural style in buildings created by eminent architects like Le Corbusier, Louis Kahn, Frank Lloyd Wright, B. V. Doshi and many more. This has much to do with the notions of attaining modernism during the industrial era for ease of function as well as the creation of new places adhering to the newness outlined as one of the key principles of modernism, diverting from the traditional methodologies. The modernism in the works as well as inspirations of the two masters of Ahmedabad- Louis Kahn and Le Corbusier highlights this idea. The buildings created by these architects contribute to the recognition of Ahmedabad on a global scale along with the title of UN Heritage City.
The buildings created by the two Masters aligned with modernist architecture style with the use of new construction techniques and materials and minimalism with a focus on the facades with large openings as opposed to ornamented and intricate works that could be found in the older times. While they were modernist in the truest sense, they were still inspired and preceded by the traditional architecture in Ahmedabad. Two of the instances are the Sarkhej Roza as an inspiration for AMOA and IIM-A and the study of pol houses, Maganbhai ni Haveli and the Sarabhai Retreat as exemplars for Le Corbusier’s buildings. One of the most important aspects of studies and inspirations came from the old city of Ahmedabad with its traditional architectural style of the pol houses, havelis, chabutras and monuments like mosques and temples largely. The traditional heritage thus serves as the precedent for the modern heritage of the city and calls for breaking away from the binary classification of the forms of the city and looking at the overarching heritage of the city.
The art form of 'Mata ni Pachedi' is used to represent this interrelation. The actual art form consists of the deity at the center with other humans, activities and built forms around the central figure. The art form is abstracted for the trail which consists of the two masters in the foreground as the center and how both of them would have drawn this art form taking inspiration from their buildings and their inspirations (geometric shapes like circles and triangles, minimalism, orthogonal nature and grid, repetition of element etc), signifying the importance of the two in transitioning the traditional heritage into modern heritage through their works.
(Illustrations inspired from the buildings Ahmedabad Mill Owner’s Association and Villa Shodhan and Modulor Humans by Le Corbusier and IIM-Ahmedabad by Louis Kahn)
[This work was produced as part of the course 'Traversing Ahmedabad- Sites and Sights' at CEPT University, 2020]